Tuesday, February 23, 2010

“I voted for you but don’t tell anyone.”

I was happy to see 55-year old opposition leader and pioneering women's rights crusader Mu Sochua in featured in the New York Times this morning. Of course, she was featured in the Asia Pacific part of the World section, under the header "The Female Factor"—when perhaps she could be described as a World Political Leader—but the piece did an excellent job of describing the difficulties of being a woman in Cambodian politics.

“Only 35 percent of voters know who won the last election,” Mu is quoted as saying. And later, “People are aware about gender. It’s a new Cambodian word: ‘gen-de.’ People are aware that women have rights."

She's described:
As an outspoken opponent of the prime minister . . . her participation taints any group, action or demonstration with the stigma of political opposition.

“My voice kills the movement,” she said. “It’s my failure. Now I am the face of the opposition, a woman’s face in opposition. Women say, ‘We believe in you. We admire you. But we can’t be with you because the movement will die.”’. . .

“This is where women can hurt women. They are in politics, but they are part of the problem by keeping silent.”

Tuesday, February 16, 2010

Poor People Who Feel Lucky

If I may quote my favorite grad school professor when Chicago was just agreeing to a proposal for an in-city gambling hall, "We all know that casinos aren't frequented by the rich, they're frequented by poor people who feel lucky."

So in Cambodia, where gambling is already a massive problem, but locating a fortune teller to change your luck isn't? This is going to be a problem.

The Khmer Riche

An interesting Sunday Times piece from yesterday details the concerns and habits of Cambodia's wealthy elites.

“My mother wanted us to get a foreign education so we could come back and control the country,” says Victor, real name Meas Sophearith, whose dad is a commander of the Cambodian Infantry and whose mom was mentioned by name in a February 2009 Global Witness report called Country for Sale. “She is a key player in Royal Cambodian Armed Forces patronage politics, holding a fearsome reputation among her husband’s subordinates,” says the report.

“We want to change things, but we’ll have to wait until our parents retire,” Victor tells the reporter. But with his rich tastes, ease in working the system, and nearly unending list of privileges, it's easy to question his sincerity.

Disappearing Boeung Kak

"There are plenty of guns in Cambodia, but I cannot get used to them being pointed at me, even in jest. After all, I'm just picking at my lunch, staring lazily at Phnom Penh's biggest lake, Boeung Kak, and the massive sandy beach across the water. Two years ago, the area was thriving with fishermen. Now, the beach is moving closer to the spot where I sit, minute by minute. Most of the fishermen are gone."
My piece on development at Boeung Kak is getting some great attention over at Truthout. Visit and recommend, won't you?

Wednesday, February 10, 2010

Monday, February 8, 2010

Calling up Khieu Samphan

Another guest post by Mo.

So, back in Berlin, I’m at a brunch gathering hosted by a couple I’ve been friends with for a long time, and afterwards, I’m left thinking what it would be like to call up Khieu Samphan. Who is awaiting trial for crimes against humanity and war crimes in Phnom Penh, as the former head of state of Democratic Kampuchea.

But yes, brunch. My friends are a German-American couple, intellectual types with Green party sympathies, who write about the Balkans and German politics. I hang out in the kitchen where the food is. The hosts are serving bread and cheese, yoghurt and vegetarian borscht, and fifteen or so other guests have brought cake, hummus, quiche, and meringues. I only brought sugar cane candy from Siem Reap. It’s a cornucopia of slightly discordant international foods, as usual in such circles, my circles. It’s good, but there’s a serious shortage of papaya salad, and I think there’s mayonnaise in the hummus.

"So, you were in Cambodia, how was it?", my friend asks, opening the conversation up to an older couple standing next to me, and then moving on to greet the newest arrivals to the party. The couple I’m talking to is well into their sixties and I gather he used to work as a writer for an alternative daily newspaper in town, though I’m not catching his name. We talk about Siem Reap, where they’d been during a six-week trip through Southeast Asia three years ago. They explain the privatization of Angkor to me which I hadn’t known about. And we start talking about the mutually familiar weirdness of being offered a trip to the Killing Fields, some action at the shooting range, or a pretty girl, in the same breath, by Phnom Penh’s tuk-tuk drivers. The conversation moves on to Cambodia’s sudden economic development and the deals made by its political leadership. It looks like primary accumulation to me, I say, citing Marx: the strongest and most well-connected take over communal property, because they can, and now have money to "invest". And it’s capitalism ever after. They nod, obviously familiar with the terminology. He talks about the absence of a welfare system even in a supposedly socialist country like neighboring Vietnam, and the corrupt dealings of "the party" there. Vietnam is where they spent most of their time in Southeast Asia, and he feels somewhat close to it, having protested against the war so much in the 1960s and 70s. She doesn’t talk very much. Many of the people in power enriching themselves in Cambodia were originally put there by the Vietnamese, after they had liberated the country. Former Khmer Rouge cadres, I echo my Cambodian History 101 knowledge.

"Oh yes, the Khmer Rouge", the white-haired, soft-spoken guy says. "Before I left Berlin, an old friend said I should call up Khieu Samphan while I’m there. He’s got his number and Khieu, or Samphan, is really friendly and approachable, my friend had said. Well, he was, before he was jailed. But I didn’t. What do you ask a guy like that."

He smiles, uncomfortably, I think. I don’t really know what to say. Yes, what do you ask someone with that much blood on his hands.

To cut it short, I later figured out the soft-spoken, white-haired guy with the mustache and black horn-rim-glasses was a leader of the May 1968 uprising in Germany (one of the better things to happen to this country, in my opinion) who, after the collapse of that movement, became a committed Maoist and headed one of the more vocal and extreme pro-Beijing sects, let’s call it KPD/XY, one of the K-Gruppen, K-groups, as they’re known here. He turned away from Maoism in 1980. Many of his friends got involved in the Green party right after. Before that, like many of his comrades, he had vocally supported the revolutionary struggle of Kampuchea’s peasants and workers. At least, that’s what they called it. We know it was something less benign, and they probably could have known, too.

The conversation sort of fizzles and the couple gets ready to head home. As they leave, another guest, a lady with long red hair who had introduced herself as the grandma of the party earlier, and whom I recognized as that weird hippieish dancer from my friends’ last party, turns to him and asks: "Hey, did you read the article I had in the newspaper last week? About the 30-year-anniversary of the Green party?" He shakes his head. "I didn’t give the KPD/XY such a bad rap as you guys usually get, she smiles, you end up looking quite good."

"Better than we deserve, I’m sure", he grumbles, and leaves.

Wednesday, February 3, 2010

Almost Final Reckoning


The Cambodia Fundraiser pictured above tells only part of the story of the amazing crew of international supporters behind Camb(l)o(g)dia who number, lessee:
- 27 direct Cambodia Fundraiser donors
- 20+ Women's Media Group Chicago bake sale contributors (and their hundreds of customers)
- 30 Cambodian Grrrl purchasers
- the 48 young women in the dorms
- and the readers and general supporters of Camb(l)o(g)dia, some of whom are listed to the right

The above shows that I made $942.20, which is not true: I have raised in fact $4,017.20, with one fundraiser still outstanding, of my original goal of $5,000. 
I deeply appreciate this support and look forward to sharing this work with you, once ready for public view. I also want to thank Mo., our one-and-only Boy Correspondent, for his great contributions, as well as the occasional distraction-free moment in which to do this work.

Pre-order Holiday in Cambodia


Holiday in Cambodia, a limited-edition zine put out by the good folks at Annalemma, is now available for pre-order. I sort of can't believe all the cool people involved: Todd Dills of 2NDHAND, Liz Grover,  Ryan Bradley, Cassandra Lewis, and former occasional Chicago zinester and musician Al Burian.

Of course I'm gonna think it's a great project—it was set up to benefit my work in Cambodia on young women and media making, which you can read about more below. But I'm also excited to read the zine. I mean: "Christmas Fax From Dad's Lawyer"? That will be great.

Apparently it's wise to pre-order  now.

The New Batch


I haven't been avoiding sharing these: I've actually been avoiding reading them myself. Well, not avoiding, but since my return to the US I've been unbelievably sick and barely able to root through the piles to find, you know, a clean pair of underpants, much less take a step back to deal with the secondary trauma of being in a hostilely cold environment without benefit of giggling young women everywhere. Not to mention in the US. How's a girl supposed to deal with that, anyway?

But today, as I used to say when I was working as an accountant, which I actually did, is a day of reckoning. I said it every day then, and every day I thought it was funny.

All in all, after the opening of the new dorm, I was able to conduct one workshop, of less than an hour, to approximately 12 new students (three—Meng Hun, Raksmey, and Sreyhak—had taken it before and jumped in with questions, suggestions, and clarifications.) This was cut short due to the kind of unforeseen circumstances one expects if one works in Cambodia. I had time for one follow-up email, pretty much a reminder of when I was leaving the country and when I would come by to say goodbye and pick up any zines they may have completed.

Given the insanity of this time period at the dorm complexes, that was pretty much what I could fit into the ongoing proceedings of Dry Season, 2010.

So I was excited and impressed to come to say goodbye and have 17 new zines, and girls working furiously on them—asking me to wait a few more minutes, pose for a portrait, checking spelling, wondering if what they did was OK—waiting for me there. Some of the zines are pictured here.

Funders, supporters, and the generally interested are welcome to contact me to arrange viewing options. A display will go up at the Bucktown Branch of the Chicago Public Library during Women's History Month, and further exhibitions are in development.